Saturday, April 21, 2007

Good Morning VietNam - April 5 to 15

On a number of recommendations, we decided to travel to Hanoi and northern Viet Nam over our 10 day Easter break. Aside from the less than ideal weather, the recommendations were all well founded and we had an excellent trip. Hanoi is a very dynamic city with close to 5 million people, and an equal number of motor bikes (or so it seemed). We were told that the actual numbers of motor bikes in the city is about 3.5 million, all with their own distinctive horn noises - sort of like a motor bike symphony (which isn't as charming as it sounds!). The traffic is an organic entity that is in one sense chaotic while in another orderly in that as you wade into the streets, the drivers simply avoid your path and other drivers avoid them and so on and so on and so on so that your entry into the traffic organism eventually leads to safe passage to the other side of the road.
Hanoi is well traveled as you couldn't help but notice many Western tourists. Probably the largest number being French speakers due to the fact that Viet Nam was once a French colony.
We stayed in the Old Quarter of Hanoi where every 3rd building was a hotel, every 3rd building was a cafe and every 3rd building was a tailor. Due to how taxes were levied - the government taxed on the frontage of the buildings facing the street - each building is therefore very narrow and long. It seems that no matter where we travel or live, people inherently distrust their governments and always look for loopholes or schemes to pay the least amount in tax - despite all governments good intentions :). In the centre of the Old Quarter lies the refuge of Hoan Kiem Lake where you will find many locals and tourists taking some time to relax from the hustle and bustle of the city.

We spent three days in Hanoi before heading on a night train to the small village of Sapa not far from the Chinese border. Sapa is located in a mountainous region northwest of Hanoi about 1600 m above sea level. It is surrounded by a number of ethnic minority villages who have lived near Sapa for centuries. You can't help but be in awe of the beautiful mountains, the countryside and the ingenuity of the people to live and farm in this area. Rice terraces fill your view in every direction. However, capitalism and the free market have hit Sapa as the town is inundated with members of the surrounding ethnic villages to sell their crafts and products to the growing number of tourists. We shared in many discussions surrounding the positives and negatives or tourism - and it is very easy to see both sides of the coin when visiting Sapa and the enthnic villages. That being said we left Sapa a little more knowledgable of the people's history and their way of life while hoping to support their culture and economy in a positive way.
We then headed back to Hanoi again on the night train and were reaquainted with the smells, noises, hustle and bustle of a city of 4 million plus people. The following day we were off on our final destination - Halong Bay. A Unesco World Heritage Site, Halong Bay is filled with literally thousands of Limestone Islands. It is a breathtaking area which only recently (within the last 20 years) has become a tourist hotspot. Amongst the islands of Halong Bay, which is about a 45 minute boat ride from the mainland, are several fishing villages built on the water protected by these craggy uninhabitable islands. There were 14 of us on the boat and we were treated regally and fed very well by the staff while getting to know one another and hear about each other's travel hi-lites and recommendations which is a common past time when travelers meet.
We will look back fondly on our visit to VietNam and the beautiful sights we were fortunate to see. We met some great people on this journey we won't soon forget- in fact, one such traveller, a Canadian named Wendy- stopped into Singapore last week for a night. We went to dinner and she spent the night at our place.
Another great trip! Thank you for taking the time to read the blog and learn about our adventures in Singapore and South East Asia. We will see you soon!

Sunday, February 11, 2007

Peking at Beijing!!! December 15-18th

Our Christmas vacation started off with a stop in Beijing, the capital of China, on the way back to Canada. Beijing is a large and amazing city with much history- much more than we had a chance to discover which is why we will probably return this summer. During our short 3 day visit, the original plan- which included a day trip to Simatai, a small town about 4 hours from Beijing (Simatai is home to one of the few relatively untouched and accessible portions of the Great Wall)- had to change because it was SO UNBELIEVABLY COLD!!! We didn't realise that going from 30 to -5 degree celsius (a 35 degress change) would be so painful. It's embarrasing to admit but it was far too cold to travel out to the exposed countryside to explore the Wall, knowing full well that we'd never be able to last longer than 20 minutes. We decided we would return to the Wall under more favourable conditions and enjoy it rather than spending quite a bit to journey out there only to freeze to death. We're certainly privileged to have the luxury to make a decision to see the Wall another time.

The cold, however, didn't stop us from trekking through the city, stopping into shops to browse and for Chinese tea when we could no longer stand the cold.

On day one we hit a market first thing and bought brandname- okay, knockoff- winter coats, hats and gloves for a ridiculously low price. Although it took a bit of time to warm up to, we loved haggling and bargaining with some of the sales people- several of whom had a good sense of humour and enjoyed the "100 Yuan", "20 Yuan", "85 Yuan", "30 Yuan", "70 Yuan- sir, I couldn't possibly sell it for less", "40- last offer"...in the end just turn your back and if they can afford to make the sale they'll make it- "Fine 40, but this is a very bad deal for me. You drive a tough bargain sir". All the while we were smiling and laughing with one another. It was good fun. The Chinese local currency is the Yuan or Rmb and currently trades $1 Cdn = 6.6 RmB.

Okay, so we got all bundled up- we were literally wearing two layers of pants, socks, tops and then our winter gear- and we headed off to Tianiman square and the Forbidden City- both of which are very impressive.

The square is alive with history and it really is huge- hence why it's the largest public square in the world. We returned on day two- nice and early so I could beat the crowds- to vist the Memorial Hall of Chairman Mao. Craig waited for me patiently (carrying our backpack and camera- which are not allowed in the Hall- while I lined up with a bunch of others (primarily Chinese paying respects) who quickly and silently filed passed Mao's corpse under glass. I found it to be a unique experience and have since had many discussions with students asking them to explain the Chinese wonder, awe and reverence for a man who is said to be responsible for the deaths of 38 million Chinese. Visit http://www.time.com/time/time100/leaders/profile/mao.html to learn more about Mao and the changes (for better and for worse) that came to China under his leadership.

The morning before we left, we walked through the Temple of Heaven,located in Tiantan Park.
The park was beautiful, particularly because it was busy with locals practicing Tai-chi, playing board games, cards, and chess. We even came across a large group of locals singing Chinese opera. It was so much fun to see such a sense of traditional community.

We were reminded of our own family and community of friends back home and before we knew it, we were on a plane, flying to Canada to surprise our families! We had what will go down in history as one of the best Christmas breaks ever!
And to add to the excitement, mom Snell flew back to Singapore with us and visited for four weeks. We stopped in Hong Kong on the return flight and the three of us tore up the city. More on Hong Kong and mom's visit in our next blog. Stay tuned for more adventures!
Beijing certainly left a lasting impression and it looks like we may be returning this summer- and we won't pass up visiting the Great Wall twice!